The UnCorker

Vall Llach Embruix Priorat 2003

Restaurant Ubeda in Barcelona is not packed, but there are only two staff.. and they are making cocktails (for some reason gin and tonics are a renown choice here), pulling draft beers, bussing dishes, plating food.. and even cooking the food. Our Spanish is terrible - it seems like they are asking us to leave… ‘we’re closing’ the gesturing seems to say as we grab an empty table, “you must leave.” But we soon learn that what they really were saying is, “it will be a while until we can get to you…. how about a shockingly affordable-for-how-delicious it is bottle of wine while you wait?”

Continue reading Vall Llach Embruix Priorat 2003…

2005 Giuseppe Fanti Portico Rosso

Hard to find, but easy to love, this wine speaks volumes about the state of the wine market in America. Teroldego, Cabernet Franc and Sauvignon, and Merlot, and a beautiful expression of mountain viticulture; aromatic and juicy with a stunning, ethereal minerality, loads of lively acidity and brisk sweet tannins- perfect for hearty cuisines. Giuseppe Fanti’s Portico Rosso is all those things, and haply if you can’t find it,Teroldego is showing up in shops and on wine lists all over, from simple juicy quaffers to beguiling wines of real character. Yep, its a great time to be a wine-drinker in America; our hats are off to those that respect us enough to import and distribute these formerly obscure gems.

Les Vignerons d’Estézargues Côtes du Rhône-Villages Signargues Les 40èmes Rugissants 2006

It’s a great thing when Astor Wines focuses it’s “15% Off Tuesdays” on the Rhone valley. It will save you absolutely no money, of course, because if you’re like us you will interpret this as a license to just buy better bottles - like this modern style effort from the Estezargues Coop. These vignerons have an interesting set-up, there are ten separate growers who all share a winemaker. They bottle under each individual estate’s name, but they also pool their grapes to make a series of blended cuvees under the coop’s name. While all their blends (even the boxed wine) is naturally vinified and unfiltered, this is the only carbonic maceration cuvee - a technique which mellows the tannins of these grapes (this year it’s 50% grenache, 25% mouvedre, and 25% carignan) and profoundly affects the style of the wine. The approach keeps the feel soft but this one is balanced with an earthy, blueberry fruit and a subtle spiciness. Retailing at around $19, it’s a good value despite the flood of decent 2006 Cotes Du Rhone at lower price points on the market.

2004 Erpacrife- The Best Nebbiolo Sparkler Ever?

From Piemonte comes this 100% Nebbiolo sparkler, made in the metodo classico by 4 young guys that met in Oenology school- the name is derived from the first sylables of their first names, making this a fair candidate for worst named best wine as well. Bright watermelon pink/ruby, it is dry as a bone and has a beautiful nose of roses, violets and candied dry fruit. It also has structure aplenty, loads of tannin followed by a long graceful finish. If you’re looking for a memorable sparkler for the new year, this your wine-

2005 Rudi Schultz Syrah

The 2005 Syrah from Rudi Schultz is a fruit bomb in the best sense of the term- loads of dark ripe fruit; fig-paste, cassis, and ripe dark cherries. Hints of sourness become, with air a bit lactic, reminding The UnCorker tasting panel of a cream chesse and jelly sandwhich. With time it presents smoke, meat, tar and a pleasant bracing grip. This is powerful, heady stuff, with a 15% abv- grill some meat and decant-

2005 Vietti Perbacco-Poor Man’s Barolo

Vietti produces concentrated, age-worthy Barolo in Castiglione-Falletto- with the highly anticipated 2004’s soon to be released, prices will be through the roof. Fortunately there is the Perbacco, 100% Nebbiolo from Barolo vineyards. See, most producers make a couple ‘levels’ of Barolo- their top-end ‘crus’, or riservas with their best grapes, and a ‘normale’ with grapes that don’t make the first selection, either too young, not from the best parts of the vineyard, etc. Vietti doesn’t produce a normale- they use the grapes other producers would call Barolo, and bottle them simply as Langhe DOC- this allows them to sell their Barolo’s for top dollar, and gives us a medium bodied aromatic Nebbiolo that is pure and graceful- aromas of violets and tobacco, tar and a bit of plum, all wrapped around a wine of elegant structure. A bit of grip and good acidity make us feel that this has a few good years in it- decant and enjoy tonight.

Skip the Champagne This New Years! Try These Alternative Sparklers…

In case you hadn’t heard, the price of French wines, always on the rise is going to be shooting into the stratosphere. Champagne is already at historically high prices due to huge demand from new markets and a successful re-branding effort by the industry (no longer just for special occasions, just drink it up like any still wine). That already too expensive glass of Vueve Clicquot you’ve been enjoying is going to cost $30 at your local wine bar.

With that in mind, its high time to take another look at American sparklers- and why not, its been a tough year for a lot of us, the times feel ugly, we have to work all the time, the rest of the world hates us, our currency is virtually worthless abroad- but we have something to be proud of- hope is in the air, and a burgeoning American wine industry is producing loads of quality sparkling wines at good prices. So this New Year’s Eve, remember- Buy American, Drink American!

Now, without ado, here’s some to consider.

Schramsberg Blanc de Blancs
This is a methode champenoise*,100% chardonnay grapes sourced from Napa, Sonoma, and the North Coast and man is it good stuff. Nice citrusy smell, grapefruit and key lime, crisp, mildly yeasty, clean-as-can be flavors, some green apple in the mix. This energetic sparkler hits all the right notes as Blanc de Blancs and has an added measure of complexity by way of its toasty, yeasty finish, with great lasting little bubbles. Schramsberg makes them all, Blanc de Noir, Rose, brut, Demi-Sec, all method champenoise, so keep an eye out.

Gruet Brut NV/ Gruet Rose NV
New Mexico! These friggin wines are from New Mexico! And they’re good- real good.
Both produced in the methode champenoise, Gruet makes the whole line, Blanc de Blancs, Blanc de Noir, Demi-Sec, Brut, Roses, just like Schramsberg, but keeps it on the real budget minded side.

The Brut NV has pleasant apple and citrus aromas with creamy flavors that end on a spicy note; This Brut offers a crisp, full-bodied sparkling wine. The Brut spent some time on its lees, giving it a nice doughy mouth feel. Brilliant with ultra fine bubbles.  The Rose NV has It has a lovely, bright floral bouquet with hints of strawberry, raspberry, and cherry. On the palate, it is rich and fruity in a dry, brut style. The flavor of berries continues on the palate, revealing more strawberry, raspberry, cherry. This sparkler is loads of fun and very festive.

Chateau Frank
New York’s Finger Lakes region has a rich viticultural history, and since 1962 Dr. Frank has been a big part of it. Taking advantage of a climate similar to Germany’s Pfalz and Mosel regions, Dr. Frank makes wines from cool climate grapes- Pinot Noir, Pinot Muenier, Chardonnay, and Riesling. Still wines are the bulk of production, but the sparklers take pride of place. A Cremant is made from Riesling, but it is the Blanc de Blancs, and the Blanc de Noirs that can be compared to fine Champagne; the Blanc de Blancs 2002 has complexity and delicate flavors, this wine exemplifies the traditional Blanc de Blancs style. A crisp acidity accompanied by complex aromas of yeast, citrus, lemon, ginger, floral and hazelnut makes this medium-bodied sparkler very pleasant. Extended lees aging gives it earthy and toasty notes with a tropical finish.

The Blanc de Noirs 2002 is a rich and complex sparkling wine with great structure and length. With aromas of pear, apple, peach, vanilla and hazelnut that combine with the toasty yeast character, persistent foam and tiny bubbles, this style creates a full-bodied sparkling wine which makes for a perfect accompaniment to a fine meal.

Argyle Blanc de Blancs
Argyle is at the fore of fine Burgundian varietals in Oregon’s Willamette Valley, so it makes sense that they would take that Pinot Noir, and that Chardonnay, and make fine sparklers in the traditional method- the 2000 Blanc de Blancs, a single vineyard cuvee, is elegant, creamy and refined, balancing delicate citrus and pear flavors against a judicious level of toasted brioche and a fleck of white pepper as the finish lingers gently.

* For this and other terms needing explanation, please, see the glossary.