The UnCorker

2006 Hans Lang Spatburgunder Pinot Noir

February 16, 2009 | In WINE REVIEWS | No Comments

The color is the first thing you’ll notice –  ruby colored, but with more of a brownish tint than you’re used to seeing in a pinot noir. Then the nose hits you – tart, red cherries and currants with a deeper, warmer scent underlying it all of figs and brandy. Like a lot of German pinots,  it’s pale and smooth and the flavors are subtle – but there is a rangy, smoky, gamy quality that makes this a unique and expressive wine. Paired with something fatty and smoky, like speck or a cured sausage, it is truly magic. In fact, this is one great charcuterie wine, and holds it’s own with any French pinot noir we’ve had in the price range (about $22).  German reds deserve a lot more attention.  The Rheingau is still growing about 80% reisling, but plantings of pinot noir (called Spatburgunder in Germany)has tripled since the 1980’s, and the country overall is now growing almost 40% red wines – including huge increases in vineyard acreage devoted not only to spatburgunder, but to unique regional varieties such as dornfelder, portugeiser, and lemberger (also known as blaufrankish).   We’re looking forward to drinking a lot more of these wines in the year to come.  If you like old world pinot noir but want to try something different, give this a go.  100% Pinot Noir aged 12 months in French barriques.