The UnCorker

2006 Wolfer Estate Reserve Chardonnay

June 9, 2009 | In WINE REVIEWS | No Comments

When you think Long Island and wine – and you do by now, right? – you naturally drift towards the North Fork. This is where Bordeaux grapes (especially Cabernet Franc) reign supreme – and a few big names like Schneider and Lenz have carved out a reputation for natural, old-world grace and command high prices for their wines. When you think South Fork & the Hamptons, what you probably don’t think about is Bridgehampton loam – but you really should. Because this is the stuff that is behind the scenes of a true off-the-beaten-path source of unique wines with exactly what the Frenchies dream of – typicity. Long Island itself is one big glacial morraine – which is the big mound of crud that a glacier dumps at it’s terminus. Sensibly, the glaciers in the last ice age decided to stop and turn around just before entering New Jersey. They left behind a giant mound of loamy goodness, perfectly suited for topping with Beaux Arts style waterfront McMansions with helipads. The previous owners at Wolffer Estate also recognized that nature had bestowed a great agricultural opportunity in this soil, so naturally turned to potato growing – and that’s the way they planted the place for a 100 years.

Enter Wolffer estate. In 1992 the place was converted to a winery and German import Roman Roth was brought in as winemaker. Consider that Wolffer’s South Fork neighbor is Channing Daughters, who employs fellow wunderkind winemaker Christopher Tracy, and here you have the two most exciting wineries in New York State. If you haven’t tried Wolffer’s chardonnays you are in for a treat. Such a rare combination of potency and extracted flavors but with a freshness and distinctive fruit quality and all around liveliness. This is due partly to Roth’s light touch with the malo – stopped at 25% – which brings out a salty lemon character and really showcases the acidity. But it’s also this funky L.I. terroir… the loam really comes through and rounds things out with subtle mulchy base notes that are hard to place. You don’t have to stretch your imagination to identify and call out tasting note analogies here – preserved lemon, vanilla, pear, honey. It’s surprisingly rich, but just so damn un-californian. An absolute steal for $16.