The UnCorker

P.S. I’m Not Sure What To Think of You

June 27, 2009 | In WINE REVIEWS |

Petite Sirah is a wine, that at least in California, is particularly difficult to make generalizations about - and that’s not only because folks can’t agree how to spell it. Part of this confusion is due to the immense variety within the vineyards themselves. A lot of California Petite Sirah bottlings are a “field blend” (aka a crap shoot of mixed grape varieties growing together). This mostly has to do with the history of this grape in the state. It’s been there a long time, planted in the 18th century by Italian immigrants, who didn’t always know exactly what they were planting. Compounding the confusion is the fact that the term was thrown around loosely to describe a variety of Syrah-like grapes in the region until 1997, when DNA testing proved that most of it really was the unloved (in France anyways) grape called Durif. But since many Petite Sirah plantings in California pre-date this knowledge, the wines carrying this grape’s name on the label can be a bit of a hodgepodge.

(Photo of Petite Syrah grapes in veraison by pixelish)

The grab-bag vineyard is not unusual in California. Old vine Zinfandel vineyards are notorious for having all sorts of grapes that are not Zinfandel in them - including, of course, Durif. Petite Sirahs have their following. They can be inky, charismatic monsters. And just like with Zinfandel, old mystery vineyards can make some killer wines. But ultimately, we find Petite Syrah bottlings hard to characterize and have had some bad luck here. It’s not a surprise, as there are a wide variety of producers and styles - just like with most varietals. But the varietal has a perfumy quality and tannic structure that makes it a challenge to bring in with anything approximating finesse. Here’s three at a range of price points that we had recently to try to sort out our opinion on the matter.

Stags Leap Winery 2006 Petite Syrah ($36)

Stags’ Leap Winery is legendary for taking P.S. to it’s dark, delicious limits - and is justifiably one of the more expensive expressions of the varietal on the market at almost $40 retail price. In fact, they are considered the first to have tackled this grape in a high-end wine - their success with it dating back to the 1970s. It does beg the question of exactly what they are doing, and how varietally correct the end product is. In the 2005, the 86% “Petite Syrah” part is a field blend, partly from their own 70 year old vineyard and partly sourced from other growers, so only god knows what’s in this thing (ok. maybe the winemaker’s got a decent idea.) But if that uncertainty wasn’t enough, it’s also blended with 14% Rhone varietals such as Syrah, Grenach, and Viognier so in a lot of ways this wine is it’s own animal, and arguably is not exactly staking it’s reputation on Durif, the humble grape. Like a lot of stately Cali brands with big followings, the goal of the blending is consistency… which, of course, they achieve. And with such extracted, inky goodness the grapes undoubtedly reach high phenolic ripeness on the vine, which means alcohol reduction or ultrafiltration may be a part of “post-production” to consistently achieve this kind of refined consistency (but, alas, we’ll never know as wineries won’t admit this.) Very deep, rich, and full of secondary aromas. Balanced but with the tannins to lay down for a few years before it’s peak.

2006 Vinum PETs Petite Sirah ($14)

The next two wines both source their fruit from Clarskburg - a hot, central valley location that’s far from the rarified air of Napa & Stag’s Leap. The PETs is a potent, extracted $14 bottling, we can see how this one might stand out at a blind tasting (which is how wines like this get their 90pt ratings from Wine Spectator, Parker, et. al). It’s full and lush, with fresh smelling boysenberry fruit characteristics and a dark, loamy zin-like quality. The grapes come from a veteran grower, Ken Wilson. The winemaker-owners, Chris Condos and Richard Bruno, have day jobs at bigger wineries, so this is somthing of a botique operation. French oak fiends, these guys, and it shows up in less than subtle ways. We’d guess the bottle we had was heavy on the eugenol - a flavor compound from oak which imparts a strong clove-like flavor. The finish is flowery and bit peppery - thick with these apple-pie spices. The more we drink, however, the more these homey, perfumy qualities get under the skin. Maybe just not our style - same reason we get antsy after five minutes at the Crate and Barrell.

2007 Bogle Petite Sirah ($10-$12)

A workhorse and a well known bargain in widely available, inexpensive California wine, Bogle sort of kicks butt for the price - even though we hate to say it. The Petite Syrah is balanced with mature and integrated tannins - and a powerful nose of black fruits and buttered popcorn.  It’s pretty - but not all Martha Stuarty like the PETs. It’s jammy and flowery in a way that’s typical of this varietal - but in less extracted way - built on a leathery, earthy base of tasty tannins and laced with an acidic tartness that provides surprising balance. A crowd-pleaser but less of a fruit bomb than one would expect. Bogle wines in general, and the Petite Syrah in particular, are not the most intellectually stimulating efforts but they are so rock solid and cheap that they represent astounding value. Buy this stuff by the case (your discount will bring it down to an even lower price) and make it your house “glass” pour. One thing we really like wines like this for is cocktail hour - before or after dinner - as the flavor is nice on it’s own and it’s easy to drink without food to balance the acid or tannins.