The UnCorker

A Contrast in Fiano- De Conciliis Goes Both Ways

July 14, 2009 | In WINE REVIEWS | 1 Comment

The Gambero Rosso says Bruno De Conciliis is a “sort of modern samuri”- to be honest, we have no idea what they’re talking about, though his wines do kill.

In the remote Campanian region of  Cilento, it is sun-baked mountains and hills, ancient rock and soil, scrub and herbs grow wild and the ancient grapes, aglianico and fiano thrive. De Conciliis vineyards run down toward the Mediterrean- this rugged beauty is reflected in the wines.

Viticoltori De Conciliis is not afraid to take chances, and sometimes they fall short- their passito Ra!, first made of barbera, now mostly aglianico, was a very difficult wine to like or understand when they first started making it- tart and cooked, it hammered the palate and the senses into a strange sort of defeat. Mostly though, their risks pay dividends- producing fiano in two radically different ways showcases not just the beauty of Fiano in the right hands, the skills of the De Conciliis’s, but also provides us with a bit of a history lesson.

The Romans knew Fiano as Vitis Apiana, meaning the bees were all over it, prized for its pinenut hazelnut nuttiness, its fresh herbacousness, an intriguing smokiness, and its ability to retain a fresh, acidic profile in the heat of southern Italy.

The 2007 Donnaluna has green apples and pears, white peaches and key lime on the nose- a fresh soft Fiano made in an utterly modern fashion. A blend from several vineyards, the grapes are picked early in the morning, given a very short maceration and fermented in temperature controlled stainless steel.

The 2004 Antece is an entirely different animal; left on its skins for a long maceration, then on its lees in huge old oak tuns, this wine is made as their ancestors(antice, thus the name) made it- rich with a funky, earthy honeyness and a rich viscosity- generous and broad on the palate with lots of baking spice. If the Donnaluna is for grilled calamari and salads, this guy can take grilled bluefish, sardines, fishy fish- though certainly there’s some overlap.  Give me a fritto misto, i’ll love either of these wines – the Donnaluna giving some cleanliless to the fry, the Antece living in accordance with the richness of the fish and shellfish.

De Conciliis makes yet another Fiano, their future wine, Perella.  Their oldest vineyards go into this modern bottling, tiny in production, barrel fermented and aged in barrique, we’ve not seen this wine in the states and are not likely to any time soon.

Producers like De Conciliis are few and far between, taking risks and making wines with no seeming care to their ease of ‘branding’, description and marketing- making wine in many styles effortlessly.  It’s the kind of producer that wows you with the breadth, seriousness and the playfulness of their production, that is willing to miss on occasion, and is to be watched vintage after vintage.