The UnCorker

Weird Wine of the Week-2006 Re Manfredi Basilicata Bianco

Basilicata is an isolated and obscure region, second to only the Molise as the smallest in wine production in Italy. Known primarily, and only really recently for Aglianico del Vulture (the region’s only DOC wine), Basilicata doesn’t seem a likely place for a cutting edge weird wine- its like stumbling on haute cuisine in your grandmother’s kitchen- at first, it seems so unlikely, its suspicious- but when you try it, it makes delicious, perfect sense.

So, some mad genius at Re Manfredi looked around Mount Vulture and saw something maybe nobody else had even considered; that the potential for northern white grapes was huge, and that taking a chance might pay off. And why not? German grapes have thrived in the Alto Adige for centuries; the Adige valley is searingly hot during the day, but the nights, nice and cool. As you have read in these pages, the Aglianico in Basilicata is one of the latest harvested grapes in all of Italy- the slopes of Mt. Vulture have vineyards planted up to 800 meters, giving a huge temperature differential between day and night. Traditionally, what white grapes there are in Basilicata are the ubiquitous malvasia and moscato, dry and sweet, still and sparkling, and with the rare exception, uninspiring, and not much exported.

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Zimberno Aglianico Del Vulture 2005

With only 600,00 occupants, Basilicata is one of Italy’s least populated regions, and probably the least important (viticulturally speaking)- with only one DOC to speak of, and that accounting for less then 2% of production. But what a DOC; Aglianico del Vulture, 1000 acres of volcanic soils on the slopes of the extinct Mount Vulture. Along with the Aglianico’s of Taurasi, these are some of the last grapes to be picked in all of Italy- hot days, cool nights, mineral rich volcanic soils, and low yields of a grape perfectly suited to its enviornment make for a tannic wine with the huge potential of Nebbiolo or Sangiovese for character and ageability. Aglianico can be stubborn, and many producers are adding French oak barriques to their repertoire, to tame and refine it a bit.

This is Michele LaLuce’s “Zimberno,”  a single vineyard Aglianico from young vines. It’s medium bodied, but with dark garnet color, and packed with complex flavors.  Intensly dark juicy briary fruit, plums, and violets- great minerality and acidity with the hallmark aromas of tobacco, cocoa and tar.  Quite dry and austere on the finish - enjoyable now, if a little challenging, and might really sing in another couple of years.