So, some mad genius at Re Manfredi looked around Mount Vulture and saw something maybe nobody else had even considered; that the potential for northern white grapes was huge, and that taking a chance might pay off. And why not? German grapes have thrived in the Alto Adige for centuries; the Adige valley is searingly hot during the day, but the nights, nice and cool. As you have read in these pages, the Aglianico in Basilicata is one of the latest harvested grapes in all of Italy- the slopes of Mt. Vulture have vineyards planted up to 800 meters, giving a huge temperature differential between day and night. Traditionally, what white grapes there are in Basilicata are the ubiquitous malvasia and moscato, dry and sweet, still and sparkling, and with the rare exception, uninspiring, and not much exported.

Making this Basilicta Bianco both weird and exceptional- these northern varieties, muller thurgau and traminer( a less aromatic varient of gewuztraminer) thrive in the volcanic soils of Vulture- planted at 400 meters, they get loads of sun and heat, and enough cool night air to allow them to ripen fully without becoming flabby and ridiculous- certainly a risk with these grapes at this latitude.

The 2006 Basilicata from Re Manfredi jumps right out of the glass with tropical fruit; pineapple, grapefuit, a tinge of white peach, surely the Muller making its presence known. A rich straw gold, this wine does not lack for body- its honeyed richness is balanced by a cleansing acidity and a bit of smoky minerality you’d expect from a wine grown on Mt. Vulture. Delicious stuff to pair with seafood, soft cheese or as an apertif.

Such an unexpected treat- sheer weird genius from Re Manfredi.

With only 600,00 occupants, Basilicata is one of Italy’s least populated regions, and probably the least important (viticulturally speaking)- with only one DOC to speak of, and that accounting for less then 2% of production. But what a DOC; Aglianico del Vulture, 1000 acres of volcanic soils on the slopes of the extinct Mount Vulture. Along with the Aglianico’s of Taurasi, these are some of the last grapes to be picked in all of Italy- hot days, cool nights, mineral rich volcanic soils, and low yields of a grape perfectly suited to its enviornment make for a tannic wine with the huge potential of Nebbiolo or Sangiovese for character and ageability. Aglianico can be stubborn, and many producers are adding French oak barriques to their repertoire, to tame and refine it a bit.

This is Michele LaLuce’s “Zimberno,”  a single vineyard Aglianico from young vines. It’s medium bodied, but with dark garnet color, and packed with complex flavors.  Intensly dark juicy briary fruit, plums, and violets- great minerality and acidity with the hallmark aromas of tobacco, cocoa and tar.  Quite dry and austere on the finish – enjoyable now, if a little challenging, and might really sing in another couple of years.