The UnCorker

2006 Wolfer Estate Reserve Chardonnay

When you think Long Island and wine - and you do by now, right? - you naturally drift towards the North Fork. This is where Bordeaux grapes (especially Cabernet Franc) reign supreme - and a few big names like Schneider and Lenz have carved out a reputation for natural, old-world grace and command high prices for their wines. When you think South Fork & the Hamptons, what you probably don’t think about is Bridgehampton loam - but you really should. Because this is the stuff that is behind the scenes of a true off-the-beaten-path source of unique wines with exactly what the Frenchies dream of - typicity. Long Island itself is one big glacial morraine - which is the big mound of crud that a glacier dumps at it’s terminus. Sensibly, the glaciers in the last ice age decided to stop and turn around just before entering New Jersey. They left behind a giant mound of loamy goodness, perfectly suited for topping with Beaux Arts style waterfront McMansions with helipads. The previous owners at Wolffer Estate also recognized that nature had bestowed a great agricultural opportunity in this soil, so naturally turned to potato growing - and that’s the way they planted the place for a 100 years.

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Mountain Road ‘Niagara Escarpment’ Pinot Noir, New York, USA 2004

What a great little surprise this wine was! Like just about everybody, our experience of New York state Pinot Noir has been limited at best, and frankly we thought we liked it that way. Here is a wine to change hearts and minds. This pinot is a cloudy bright brick red with an expressive nose of wild strawberry, spice and mineral. Bright on the mid-palate with finely woven tannins, this wine does disappear quickly , prompting a friend to say ” there is no there there’ which may be the case, but still a wine that could take a bit of a chill and be terrific with that picnic. Maybe its my New York pride, but we’ll be keeping an eye on Mountain Road. $22 @ Vintage New York