Enter Wolffer estate. In 1992 the place was converted to a winery and German import Roman Roth was brought in as winemaker. Consider that Wolffer’s South Fork neighbor is Channing Daughters, who employs fellow wunderkind winemaker Christopher Tracy, and here you have the two most exciting wineries in New York State. If you haven’t tried Wolffer’s chardonnays you are in for a treat. Such a rare combination of potency and extracted flavors but with a freshness and distinctive fruit quality and all around liveliness. This is due partly to Roth’s light touch with the malo – stopped at 25% – which brings out a salty lemon character and really showcases the acidity. But it’s also this funky L.I. terroir… the loam really comes through and rounds things out with subtle mulchy base notes that are hard to place. You don’t have to stretch your imagination to identify and call out tasting note analogies here – preserved lemon, vanilla, pear, honey. It’s surprisingly rich, but just so damn un-californian. An absolute steal for $16.